Adding ND filter to GoPro with Gimbal

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Has anyone experimented with adding an ND filter (and hence more weight) to the GoPro on the gimbal? I have the Hero 3+ Black and used the 6g weights included in the kit to balance. When I add the ND filter, it throws this balance off when the Solo is powered down. With power on the gimbal kicks in and keeps the camera level. BUT, what kind of wear and tear is this putting on the gimbal motors? Are there any suggestions for adding weights to restore the default balance?
 
Just spoke with 3DR support and they don't recommend adding any extra weight to the gimbal. I guess I'll just have to live with the little bit of vibration I'm seeing in the video. It's still way better than the cage mount.
 
Just spoke with 3DR support and they don't recommend adding any extra weight to the gimbal. I guess I'll just have to live with the little bit of vibration I'm seeing in the video. It's still way better than the cage mount.
I have wasabi battery's in the gopro, guess that's going to be a problem also then? Wasabi battery's a a little lighter in weight.

Sent from the 4th dimension using my Nexus 6
 
I have wasabi battery's in the gopro, guess that's going to be a problem also then? Wasabi battery's a a little lighter in weight.

Sent from the 4th dimension using my Nexus 6
I don't think that's a problem. I also have a wasabi battery or two and the gimbal seems balanced with no power.
 
  • ND8/Circular Polarizer Combo Filter 7.6 grams + 7.6 gram counter weight and a 15.2 gram counter weight would add 30.4+ grams. just over an ounce.
 
I have 2 ND filters: an ND8 for bright sunny days, and an ND4 for hazy, thin overcast days. Haven't had them that long, but so far, they make my aerial videos look SO much better, especially the ND8, since I like to shoot on bright clear days.

When the naked camera is installed in the gimbal and the two small included weights are added to the top & bottom, as specified, the camera stays where you put it, which is what a powered-off gimbal is supposed to do. Regardless of the position of the camera, a perfectly balanced gimbal will not move at all, so when powered on, it's not fighting to keep it level, which would put added strain on the motors.

I have a Hero 4 Silver, and purchased my two BlurFix Air filters for it because they're very light. But "very light" does not equal no weight at all. So of course the filter causes the camera to fall forward and to the left (when standing behind the camera), since the lens & filter are on the front left side.

So the goal was to find the amount of weight, and the correct position, to add weight to the rear and right side to offset both off-level situations (fore-and-aft & side-to-side).

I tried several different combinations of coins to see what worked, attaching them lightly with Scotch tape to test. If either side, or front or rear of the camera fall, the motor has to work to make up the difference. I came pretty close with combinations of pennies and dimes. But when I was pretty close, but not quite there, firing up the gimbal would result in an audible motor noise coming from it, letting me know that it was fighting to stay level, instead of falling there naturally.

I finally found the closest weight and position, that resulted in almost-perfect level in all directions, and no motor noise whatsoever: a nickel on the rear and a nickel on the right side (again, standing behind the camera).

I attached a small square of industrial-strength velcro (available on Amazon: http://bit.ly/velcro-1-inch-industrial-strength) to the rear and right side, and the opposing piece to the nickels (cut perfectly round to fit).

I've flown about 9 batteries since setting this up, regularly checking the balance of the un-powered camera/gimbal and for any sign of motor noise when powered up. So far, so good, with great, smooth flights, and no sign that I'm stressing the gimbal motors.

Attached photos show the exact placement of velcro and coins. Again, this is for a Hero 4 Silver. Might be different for other models. If anyone has tried anything else that works well too, please share! The difference in quality with an ND filter is too good to omit just because 3DR didn't make weights for them.

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Has anyone experimented with adding an ND filter (and hence more weight) to the GoPro on the gimbal? I have the Hero 3+ Black and used the 6g weights included in the kit to balance. When I add the ND filter, it throws this balance off when the Solo is powered down. With power on the gimbal kicks in and keeps the camera level. BUT, what kind of wear and tear is this putting on the gimbal motors? Are there any suggestions for adding weights to restore the default balance?
I Have added an ND filter and I use a polarizer on a GoPro Hero 4 black and no issues
 
I added the big 6g weight that cames with the 3dr gimbal to the back of the gimbal. Look carefully at the back of the gimbal there are mounting holes pre threaded, the weight just screwed on. I added some blue thread lock. And another 5g of lead weight shrink wrap and double side tape to the end of the tilt axis motor cover. My filter weights in about 5g and I have Hero4 black.
 
For the last week I've been shooting every day with ND4 through ND16 filters (all polarized). I haven't bothered to counter balance at all, and I've shot in high winds up to 14m/s (30 mph).

Of course none of that is recommended by 3DR. That would be crazy. I can't say I recommend it myself (particularly shooting in 14m/s winds), but I've done it and the Solo has handled it all like a champ. I do get the occasional gimbal flop, especially when flying into strong winds, but the Solo recovers every time.

As to how much additional wear and tear its putting on the gimbal... only time will tell. When mine finally goes, I'll probably post somewhere on this site.
 
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really I mean the strain you're putting on the motors in the long run is whats nerve racking.
I couldnt imagine doing that to my MoVI

still id like to see some footage!
 
Never used filters on the GoPro since using a 35MM SLR back in the 70's.
I'm looking at the GoPro Drone Filter 6-Pack-PolarPro Professional Edition Set on Amazon for $99.
Includes CP, ND8, ND16, ND32, ND8/PL, ND16/PL
Are they worth it?
 
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Never used filters on the GoPro since using a 35MM SLR back in the 70's.
I'm looking at the GoPro Drone Filter 6-Pack-PolarPro Professional Edition Set on Amazon for $99.
Includes CP, ND8, ND16, ND32, ND8/PL, ND16/PL
Are they worth it?
They are slightly lighter than the Blurfix filters. I have both. For the last week I've been flying exclusively with the Blurfix because I think the optics might be a little better. I'm not sure about that, but I didn't have time to do any side by side testing so i can't say for sure. If the optics are equal, go for the polorpro.
 
For the last week I've been shooting every day with ND4 through ND16 filters (all polarized). I haven't bothered to counter balance at all, and I've shot in high winds up to 14m/s (30 mph).

Of course none of that is recommended by 3DR. That would be crazy. I can't say I recommend it myself (particularly shooting in 14m/s winds), but I've done it and the Solo has handled it all like a champ. I do get the occasional gimbal flop, especially when flying into strong winds, but the Solo recovers every time.

As to how much additional wear and tear its putting on the gimbal... only time will tell. When mine finally goes, I'll probably post somewhere on this site.
When do you use the ND16? I thought 8 would be high enough for a clear, sunny day- no?
 
For the record, I to use filters (many times stacked) which make the camera fall forward.

There was a very long discussion about this on the Solo Mod group with Phil Rowse (3DR). Their take is that the gimbal doesn't need to be balanced any more than recommended (with the weights) using the stock cameras, but after lengthy discussion, Rowse agreed that adding filters changes the equation, and came down on the side of adding weights to neutrally balance the gimbal when adding filters.

Since I use the PEAU "supermount" (which adds weight by itself) I have added weights to balance that, and then velcro on to that weight, and velcro (the other side) to a series of weights. When I add a filter (I sometimes stack them) I add a weight. The gimbal is always straight and level with the power off.

I believe strongly this lowers the demand on the gimbal, allowing it to respond better in the air..
 
For the record, I to use filters (many times stacked) which make the camera fall forward.

There was a very long discussion about this on the Solo Mod group with Phil Rowse (3DR). Their take is that the gimbal doesn't need to be balanced any more than recommended (with the weights) using the stock cameras, but after lengthy discussion, Rowse agreed that adding filters changes the equation, and came down on the side of adding weights to neutrally balance the gimbal when adding filters.

Since I use the PEAU "supermount" (which adds weight by itself) I have added weights to balance that, and then velcro on to that weight, and velcro (the other side) to a series of weights. When I add a filter (I sometimes stack them) I add a weight. The gimbal is always straight and level with the power off.

I believe strongly this lowers the demand on the gimbal, allowing it to respond better in the air..
I would agree, balanced gimbal and camera is essential for buttery vid and long motor life.
 
When do you use the ND16? I thought 8 would be high enough for a clear, sunny day- no?
Depends on what effect you are looking for and what you are shooting.

Frame Rate Vs. Shutter Speed - Setting The Record Straight

ND16 is really only 4 stops reduction. So you could think of it as shooting at ISO 50 @f4 on your camera (minus any noise benefits from the lower ISO and depth of field from the smaller aperture). The resulting shutter speed with this combination is what will affect your video.

Now think about shooting a waterfall, something moving reasonably fast in your shot, or accidentally having the very fast spinning props coming into the frame. Your shutter speed will dictate how these things are captured, or not.
 
When do you use the ND16? I thought 8 would be high enough for a clear, sunny day- no?
I used an ND 16 on some glaciers a couple weeks ago. That was a no brainer. If your getting white specular blown out highlights off snow, ice, certain rocks, or water (white caps on waves) or off boat decks (some boat decks are pure white), then an ND 16 might make sense.

Basically a combo ND8/CP (circular polarizer) is my go to filter, and occasionally I'll use an ND 16. Then in Final Cut I'll adjust the exposure.
 
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Thanks for the reassurance guys. I have been going back and forth on the ND filter. I balanced mine with pennies and velcro and it doesn't seem to stress the gimbal too much. On an average day, I can't say that I notice a huge difference either way. In any case, I would always rather underexpose and fix it in post.
 
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For the record, I to use filters (many times stacked) which make the camera fall forward.

There was a very long discussion about this on the Solo Mod group with Phil Rowse (3DR). Their take is that the gimbal doesn't need to be balanced any more than recommended (with the weights) using the stock cameras, but after lengthy discussion, Rowse agreed that adding filters changes the equation, and came down on the side of adding weights to neutrally balance the gimbal when adding filters.

Since I use the PEAU "supermount" (which adds weight by itself) I have added weights to balance that, and then velcro on to that weight, and velcro (the other side) to a series of weights. When I add a filter (I sometimes stack them) I add a weight. The gimbal is always straight and level with the power off.

I believe strongly this lowers the demand on the gimbal, allowing it to respond better in the air..
I just received my gopro with peau supermount mod. Any chance that there is a video of how you balanced the gimbal with the filter on? :D
 

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