- Joined
- Jun 6, 2015
- Messages
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Bluesgeek, it sounds like you know more about than I do. I just didn't want others to think there was no reason to use the NDs for their intended purpose with the GPs.
I just didn't want others to think there was no reason to use the NDs for their intended purpose with the GPs.
Im not really talking about vibrations as such, but just if i pan up or down it is kind of a bit stop start, i guess i just have to go really slow, it just doesn't look great, i will have to just plan shots where i don't pan too much i guess.the modified gopro will address props and legs in the shot for the most part even shooting wide. I can still get a prop in the shot if I fly aggressively enough.
As for vibrations conventional wisdom says a modified lens will not help but hurt. I find that the newer lenses don't really add that much to the video vibrations. Look at Rich's tension vs compression thread at post 109 to see what I find so far to be the most effective way to deal with that
If I'm just filming straight ahead, I find setting the gimbal at 85° instead of 90° helps keep the props out of view. Legs usually show up when unmodified GoPro is set to WIDE and Solo yaws too aggressively.My biggest issue is the propellers and legs coming into the shot, and also the gimbal is a little jerky and not too smooth, maybe i just need practice, i think a lot of my problems would be solved with a modified go pro.
I agree with the others regarding a softer touch on the gimbal paddle, but I would add that the preset buttons on the other side of the controller are a great way to get super smooth tilting up and down. Preset A to 85 degrees. Preset B to 45 degrees. Use the wheel to adjust the speed to 11 seconds. Then try messing around with that. Eventually you'll adjust those settings to match your needs, but I find that works for me pretty well. Rarely do I look straight down, but when I want that I change B to 0 degrees. Also I play with the wheel a lot to get the speed I want, but 11 seconds is a good slow starting point.Im not really talking about vibrations as such, but just if i pan up or down it is kind of a bit stop start, i guess i just have to go really slow, it just doesn't look great, i will have to just plan shots where i don't pan too much i guess.
Thank you. I think I'll try this.Found it, Jason Short via @franknitty69,... I remember it now...still don't trust my computer hacking skills.
Would be nice if the gimbal preset speed wheel worked with the paddle too.It would be nice if they offered an adjustment, in software, to slow down the paddle speed. I'd actually prefer a HW switch and/or a variable resistor to control on the fly. There was a mod on the P2 using a variable resistor to control the yaw rotation speed, it worked very well.
But like Erik said, the preset gimbal control is effective in doing the same.
Unfortunately I can no longer edit the sticky. There is apparently a word count limit on posts now. If I try to edit my own post, I'm told I can't because it's too long.bump
maybe we can get a new discussion/update now that ISO can be locked and shutter speed is finally introduced.
I shoot at 30fps with ND4/CPL in low-mod light and ND8/CPL in bright light
my short test in cloudy sunset with the ND4/CPL yielded best result with 1/30 and ISO200 locked
What is its equiv in stops for ND8? 1/60 ISO200? 1/30 ISO100? 1/60 ISO 100? Sorry Im bad at these conversions.
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