Filter frenzy and frenetic heat

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On a hot, hot day (119 degrees), I flew the various PolarPro filters around. Unfortunately, the air was too hot for my tablet, so had to fly blind/no preview and no automation for exact flight replication. I'm not particularly proud of the work, but not too shy to share.
Which Neutral Density and/or PL filter combo works best for you (This stream is best viewed in 4K)?
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This was flown with the 3DR Solo, GoPro shooting 2.7/60
 
I don't have the eyes of you other guys, but I like the clarity that the ND8/PL provided in this comparison. The non-PL portion my eye went with the ND16. Do I win a prize?

I know your "sponsored" now, so you may not be able to answer. Your post is actually raising a question for me, to why one brand over another. I'm leaning towards the SRP filter set based on @erikgraham recommendation in his GP settings FAQ. For me it's a "go big or go home" attitude for filter choice. Any pros/cons for one brand's solution over the other?

So Solo was the only flyable bird in that heat...interesting. Was this due to the lack of the iPad being available or that the other birds failed to arm due to the heat?
 
IIRC, it was because the ipad was overheating and not working in the heat (he showed this video and talked about it in his class)
 
I don't have the eyes of you other guys, but I like the clarity that the ND8/PL provided in this comparison. The non-PL portion my eye went with the ND16. Do I win a prize?

I know your "sponsored" now, so you may not be able to answer. Your post is actually raising a question for me, to why one brand over another. I'm leaning towards the SRP filter set based on @erikgraham recommendation in his GP settings FAQ. For me it's a "go big or go home" attitude for filter choice. Any pros/cons for one brand's solution over the other?

So Solo was the only flyable bird in that heat...interesting. Was this due to the lack of the iPad being available or that the other birds failed to arm due to the heat?

I'm not "sponsored" by anyone; I paid for the Polar Pro's like everyone else (albeit at a company discount). ;) I also have the SRP. I'll find the time to test them against each other, but frankly, the only way you'll find a non-subjective opinion is to fly ND's against a chart, and there won't be motion there. What I like about Polar Pro is that they've put together two different product lines to meet each budget. The Cinema Series are identical to the SRP, for a few pennies less. Comparing the standard Polar Pro to SRP isn't a fair comparison; they're entirely different materials. Hoya is coming to the table soon too, and Bowker has some very poorly plastic-cast filters that I didn't bother with.

My original intent for this particular shootout was to have the Solo fly an automated multipoint cable cam. It was just too hot. The Lightbridge on the DJI lost functionality just before the ipad failed, and then the second iPad failed. Regardless of manufacturer's heat claims, I'll tell you that Autel, Prodrone, and DJI couldn't take the heat, even with the iPad cooled down in an ice chest and functioning for 7-10 mins.
 

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Is it okay to fly in that high of heat? I live Southern California near Arizona and see those temperatures all summer. Just worried about the motors overheating.
 
On a hot, hot day (119 degrees), I flew the various PolarPro filters around. Unfortunately, the air was too hot for my tablet, so had to fly blind/no preview and no automation for exact flight replication. I'm not particularly proud of the work, but not too shy to share.
Which Neutral Density and/or PL filter combo works best for you (This stream is best viewed in 4K)?
To view this content we will need your consent to set third party cookies.
For more detailed information, see our cookies page.

This was flown with the 3DR Solo, GoPro shooting 2.7/60
I too have had heat related problems with my iPad mini 3 here in Phoenix. I came up with the following fix which works, although I haven't used it extensively:
I cut a piece of scrap 1/8" plexiglass to the size of the mini. I also cut a piece of towel to the same size.
Just before flight, I soak the towel with cold water and wring it out so its not dripping wet. Sandwich the towel between the iPad and plexiglass and place in the controller holder as you normally do.

The wet towel draws a lot of the heat away from the iPad so it continues to work. Haven't tried it at 119 deg. I think it would work but the towel might need to be cooled off more frequently.

If you try it, let us know how it works out.:cool:
 
Is it okay to fly in that high of heat? I live Southern California near Arizona and see those temperatures all summer. Just worried about the motors overheating.
Good question- I'd like to know too. Recently I flew for about 10 minutes when the temp. was 105 deg. After landing I checked the motors with a Fluke laser thermometer and they were about 140 deg.

Does anyone know it there is a max operating temp. for these motors?
 
I too have had heat related problems with my iPad mini 3 here in Phoenix. I came up with the following fix which works, although I haven't used it extensively:
I cut a piece of scrap 1/8" plexiglass to the size of the mini. I also cut a piece of towel to the same size.
Just before flight, I soak the towel with cold water and wring it out so its not dripping wet. Sandwich the towel between the iPad and plexiglass and place in the controller holder as you normally do.

The wet towel draws a lot of the heat away from the iPad so it continues to work. Haven't tried it at 119 deg. I think it would work but the towel might need to be cooled off more frequently.

If you try it, let us know how it works out.:cool:
we tried a cold pack, and that worked a little better, but not much. The heat hitting the glass face creates the problem. Our shade helped a little, but no matter what, neither iPad would hold. I don't know the op temp of the motors, but beyond 40C would be a surprise.
 
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Page 80 of the Solo manual states "Operating temperature: 32° F - 113° F (0° C - 45° C)"

We can probably find the motor specific temps on the manufacturers website
 
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Didn't mean to get the thread's intentions off course. Thanks for the details and correction to your discounted purchases....:envy:

I don't have the eyes of you other guys, but I like the clarity that the ND8/PL provided in this comparison. The non-PL portion my eye went with the ND16. Do I win a prize?

Thanks for the SRP to Polor Pro Cine comparison. I hate buying things twice, which tends to make me not buy at all if not a clear choice. I'm still on the fence regarding filters.
 
Page 80 of the Solo manual states "Operating temperature: 32° F - 113° F (0° C - 45° C)"

We can probably find the motor specific temps on the manufacturers website
Didn't mean to get the thread's intentions off course. Thanks for the details and correction to your discounted purchases....:envy:



Thanks for the SRP to Polor Pro Cine comparison. I hate buying things twice, which tends to make me not buy at all if not a clear choice. I'm still on the fence regarding filters.

IMO, there shouldn't be any "on the fence" aspect of the thought process; you NEED filters to get the right shot/colors/cadence.
Whether you want to spend a bit of money or a LOT of money is the question.
The SRP lenses have not been terribly popular due to cost; Polar Pro is struggling to deliver enough Cinema series; if you contact the Las Vegas Drones Plus store and ask for Alex Harper, he'll give anyone here a screaming price on the SRP while supplies last.
 
OK, So I have been on the fence as well. Not whether I need them or not, but which ones. I also see that some of these filters use an adapter that slips onto the GoPro lens surround ring, then the filter screws into the adapter. This would be nice to have, as I could try other filters, as long as the filter diameter was the same as the adapter size. And there were adapters for the GoPro housing as well. I tried to look for the Polar Pro Cinema Series, but only found the ones for DJI.

Also you mentioned that Hoya was coming out with something, any idea when?
 
I can wait already have the Frame 2.0 X 6 pack. I have not been impressed with them they are a PITA to clean inside the filter.


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OK, So I have been on the fence as well. Not whether I need them or not, but which ones. I also see that some of these filters use an adapter that slips onto the GoPro lens surround ring, then the filter screws into the adapter. This would be nice to have, as I could try other filters, as long as the filter diameter was the same as the adapter size. And there were adapters for the GoPro housing as well. I tried to look for the Polar Pro Cinema Series, but only found the ones for DJI.

Also you mentioned that Hoya was coming out with something, any idea when?

I don't know when. I do know they have a deal with Autel Robotics for their drones. Autel is 3 months late delivering, so perhaps soon, we'll see Hoya delivering.
 
I spoke LV Drone Plus, Alex called in sick today....:( I did get a call back, but it wasn't a screaming deal....and they only had the CP, ND8 & ND8/CP. Guess I was late to the party. Thanks all the same Douglas.

Called SRP, not much help there...seems it's just a filter house dude....is dope legal in Idaho???

Anyway the question comes up why filters, seems it is to correct jello and blur. You say color and cadence, what is cadence? Honestly I have very little if any of those problems now, no really. Prior to my mod, whites and reflected light would burn out the image, this was caused by the micro vibes. If anything now it's a very minor issue or just "normal" glare. I'm wondering if just a CP would work....why crush the light with a ND if I don't have blur...?

My sun is coastal Texas, so its bright with a certain amount of haze from the moisture or ozone in the air. Wish I could just run by a store and try the filters out......before I buy. Will find someone local that carries filters for GP...
 

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