Filter frenzy and frenetic heat

[RichWest]

FWIW, it was a screaming deal, when Douglas stepped in...just not my starting point with the ND8. Douglas you're grouped up with a first class operation at Drones Plus, but then they are lucky to have you as a resource. If they were selling stock, I'd buy a few shares.....

 

[Greg Parker]

Prior to my mod, whites and reflected light would burn out the image, this was caused by the micro vibes. If anything now it's a very minor issue or just "normal" glare. I'm wondering if just a CP would work....why crush the light with a ND if I don't have blur...?
.

I am using the Taco filters in particular the multi coated line. They cost more than the regular but reduce internal reflections and associated flare. They are slightly lighter than most at only 5.0g.

TACO-RC Multi-Coating MC ND filters set (ND4/8/16/32) for GoPro Hero3 / 3+ / 4 Free Shipping


In bright light an ND filter slows the shutter speed allowing one to get closer to the "180 degree shutter rule" which produces a more natural motion blur. The f- stop of these lens is also not adjustable.

Since the shutter can't be controlled directly on the GoPro the only options are ISO and ND filters to slow the shutter. With the lowest ISO at 400 one is probably not near 180 in most daylight scenes. Some suggest that in bright light a ND8 gets close; during the "Golden hours" a ND 4 may be enough.

Some don't care and just shoot. But in general use at least a ND4 unless shooting at twilight or later to get a more realistic motion blur. My ND 8 gets the most use.

Here for more: The 180 Degree Shutter Rule - The Camera Forum®

 

[RichWest]

Here for more: The 180 Degree Shutter Rule - The Camera Forum®

I actually understood what he was saying and showing. Heck I could have seen that video before, but just didn't see the answer. That was an actual aha moment for me. Kudos for the share...

In bright light an ND filter slows the shutter speed allowing one to get closer to the "180 degree shutter rule" which produces a more natural motion blur. The f- stop of these lens is also not adjustable.

Since the shutter can't be controlled directly on the GoPro the only options are ISO and ND filters to slow the shutter. With the lowest ISO at 400 one is probably not near 180 in most daylight scenes. Some suggest that in bright light a ND8 gets close; during the "Golden hours" a ND 4 may be enough.

Some don't care and just shoot. But in general use at least a ND4 unless shooting at twilight or later to get a more realistic motion blur. My ND 8 gets the most use.

Now this all makes sense or at least better sense... @erikgraham mentions much of the same in his FAQ, but it didn't register as I read the info. Again thanks for the clarity on the subject and thanks to @EyeWingsuit for the OP to bring me to this understanding. Now I need to buy and apply what was taught...

 

[PdxSteve]

This is the bundle I use from Polar Pro. Love the ND8-PL and ND16-PL the most.
GoPro Frame2.0 Filter Professional Edition 6-Pack

You can get them for $88 on Amazon with Prime: Amazon.com : PolarPro Drone Filter 6-Pack Professional Edition-For GoPro Hero4, Hero3+, Hero3 : Camera & Photo

 

[Solo Keith]

Didn't mean to get the thread's intentions off course. Thanks for the details and correction to your discounted purchases....:envy:



Thanks for the SRP to Polor Pro Cine comparison. I hate buying things twice, which tends to make me not buy at all if not a clear choice. I'm still on the fence regarding filters.

@RichWest, I could loan you an ND4 to see how you might like. I also have an ND32 that I don't use much at all. I regularly use the ND8 & 16. But the ND16 has to be replaced due to it was busted during a total loss of power at take off. Solo nose dives into my deck that is over water. Whoa!! That was a close one. Just let me know if you'd like to do some experimenting w/the 2 filters. I'll ship em right on out

 

[RichWest]

First, bird into deck, crash, what's up with that? Was this your mod'd bird with T-Motors? Send me a private message....

I just bought two full sets of filters and should have them on Thursday, Polar Pro and SRP.

Edit to add: And I'm also debating on getting the Taco RC filter set. I like how they've assembled their filters into two rings and allow the ability to separate for proper cleaning....

 

[Solo Keith]

First, bird into deck, crash, what's up with that? Was this your mod'd bird with T-Motors? Send me a private message....

I just bought two full sets of filters and should have them on Thursday, Polar Pro and SRP.

Edit to add: And I'm also debating on getting the Taco RC filter set. I like how they've assembled their filters into two rings and allow the ability to separate for proper cleaning....

1st bird before T-Motors. Mentioned the crash before on PM. Didn't send video of though. No damage @ all except the broken glass in filter.

 

[RichWest]

Whew...I thought you were about to file a warranty claim on my work...

I do appreciate the offer, I'm not poor, just cheap and a tight-wad. My wallet squeaks when it's opened and slams shut when closing. Figured what the heck while I was buying my son his college laptop from B&H. Could have bought 3 Solos with the money spent on his LT...only the best will do.

 

[Solo Keith]

Whew...I thought you were about to file a warranty claim on my work...

I do appreciate the offer, I'm not poor, just cheap and a tight-wad. My wallet squeaks when it's opened and slams shut when closing. Figured what the heck while I was buying my son his college laptop from B&H. Could have bought 3 Solos with the money spent on his LT...only the best will do.

Haha!! Of course I knew the warranty was over with the day I installed your T-Motor build. It was well worth losing. Besides, I've got over 11 months on Solo2 (that's probably gonna change too lol)
I'm using the BackBone Ribcage to balance. Works really well when swapping my GP4 Silver w/Peau 3.97 lens & GP4 Black stock. I've got it where all I have to do is slide to marked position. I think it's a brilliant piece of hardware.

 

[twitchyzero]

i've tried Polar Pro Frame 2.0 3-pack...they had awful flares....not to mention poor quality (glue was visible around the bezel ring). Personally I am skeptical with Polar Pro if you read up on the horror stories of their Solo prop guards. I hear their customer service is good though.

got SRP Blurfix AIr series and never looked back...the build quality is much superior than Polar Pros.

 

[PdxSteve]

These are pretty top-notch as well (double sided, multi coated, ND/PL, internal lens twists to adjust PL orientation): TACO-RC Double Sided Multi-Coating ND/PL Polarizer filters set (ND4/8/16/32) for 3DR Solo GoPro Free Shipping

 

[RichWest]

Filters have arrived, however its overcast....

 

[Solo Keith]

Filters have arrived, however its overcast....

Which ones you get? I was wrong about the ones I said I have. For some reason I thought I had Polar Pro. When actually it's the Taco RC filters. @PdxSteve, thanks for jolting this old brain

 

[RichWest]

Which ones you get?

Polar Pro and SRP. Flew with the SRP's this evening to check the gimbal balance, seems fine at this point. PPro's are very light weight in comparison.

 

[RichWest]

Been playing with filters this weekend in combination with GP settings. It's really is a complicated endeavor and a lot to absorb and to compare. Keeping notes will more than likely help the long term efforts, but need a check sheet to speed up note keeping in the field.

The higher the ND the less crisp the video is, for the obvious reason of a slower shutter. So now I'm looking at the trade-offs or will be as I build more knowledge for this aerial art.

For others seeking the same, I'd search out the wealth of information that @erikgraham has posted over the last year on the subject of filters. Much is a single post within a thread, but the info is very revealing if an effort is made to stitch it all together.

Just proves an old dog can learn new tricks, sometimes he just follows a different path to get there...

 

[erikgraham]

If you don't want to loose sharpness, then use ev_comp instead of an ND filter. EV comp is applied AFTER the shutter speed has been set. Therefore your GoPro will already have selected a fast shutter speed and Ev_Comp settings won't have any effect.

The problem with relying on ev-comp is getting smooth video. The faster the shutter speed, the more noticeable vibrations and jello become.

Also a high shutter speed image will be sharper, but may actually lack *percieved* detail compared to a properly exposed image shot at a slower shutter speed. Actually, it might even lack actual detail, not just percieved, because the GoPro gets blockier at higher shutter speeds. You don't get good detail in the highlights (which is the whole purpose right? Getting an exposure that isn't blown out).

For me the struggle on the GoPro is with detail in the highlights. The shadows are fine. I've found I can recover a surprising amount of detail in the shadows using Resolve, so I've become increasingly aggressive with ND filters.

Even though the ND filtered image is "blurrier" I get more detail in the bright areas and less blocky artifacts. The final color corrected image always "seems" sharper than a shot with no ND filter and ev_comp cranked down. Also, ev_comp looses detail in the blacks vs the equivalent nd filter.

 

[RichWest]

Aerial filming is a really difficult endeavor. The angle of the sun, clouds, reflective surfaces or disagreeable winds; I'm amazed we can do this with even modest success. When we see one of those epic aerial videos, I know now many man hours were devoted to bring out the best.

The problem with relying on ev-comp is getting smooth video. The faster the shutter speed, the more noticeable vibrations and jello become.

That was one of the reason I chose not to apply filters while working out vibes in hardware. I understand now that some of the artifacts couldn't be remedied without a filter of some sort. The main issue is over exposure in the video, like you said it hard to rid and then maintain the details in the shadows. It's a double edge sword.

I do appreciate your knowledge on the subject, it appears to be intuitive knowledge based on years of experiences. I get what you're saying and will work harder to understand and apply, but I'm handicapped by the need for trial and error learning. It's the only way for it to soak in to my little brain and then be able to command it up on demand...like you seem to do. Intuitive knowledge.

 

[pyrate]

to regain some sharpness use the unsharp mask in post
I always sharpen zoomed in at 400% and find a hard edge
crank it up until I see noise and artifacts then back it down to clean

 

[SurfnSkate81]

Which ones you get? I was wrong about the ones I said I have. For some reason I thought I had Polar Pro. When actually it's the Taco RC filters. @PdxSteve, thanks for jolting this old brain

@Solo Keith how did your Taco RC filters go?

Anyone else have some feedback to report on the performance of the Taco RC filters? I currently have PolarPro but have not been impressed with being able to properly clean the inside the lens surround.

Looking for some that I can remove the filter from the lens surround. I know the SRP filters can be removed but I think the price is excessive. And I'm looking for an ND64, but only Peau have them and you can't remove the filter from the surround.


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[Solo Keith]

@Solo Keith how did your Taco RC filters go?

Anyone else have some feedback to report on the performance of the Taco RC filters? I currently have PolarPro but have not been impressed with being able to properly clean the inside the lens surround.

Looking for some that I can remove the filter from the lens surround. I know the SRP filters can be removed but I think the price is excessive. And I'm looking for an ND64, but only Peau have them and you can't remove the filter from the surround.


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The Tacos have been great for me. I got the 4 pack ND4, ND8, N16, N32. The 16 saved Solo#1 when it lost power @ take off & nose dived into a wooden deck. They are of good quality and are easy to clean. You can remove the filter from its aluminum housing by just lifting the rubber "O" ring. And they're made of glass & not plastic. The filters are screwed onto an aluminum sleeve that will slide onto the GP. Also come w/a nice case.
I use them w/ my GP Silver w/3.97 Peau lens. I had a problem balancing the gimbal when I first started using. Tried all kinds of balancing tricks. What worked was the BACKBONE Ribcage. That's a brilliant little piece.